August 4th - A long day

Having been woken by R during the nightseveral times and being told to be quiet because of nearby animals, hyenas, I was a bit tired on rising. We had arranged an earlier start of 8 o'clock to try and get two transects done, and so complete the first area.

Everyone appeared on time and we headed off. Using the GPS, we happened upon our first quadrant fairly quickly, and now were far more efficient, starting measurements before the area was marked completely.

We carried on like this up the transect, completing it before noon, with plenty more filming of fallen or cut trees and disturbances etc..

Our next task was to traverse across to the top of the next transect. Assured that it was an easy enough route we set off following the GPS as the crow flies to the next area. Maybe not the best plan, this took us down into ta valley and up the steep opposite slope. Up through thick bush we struggled, still not acclimatised to the altitude, we came across an area that had some time ago been accidentally burned because of fires lit to get at bees honey. The locals use the smoke from the fire to flush out the bees so they can harvest the honey. These fires are usually extinguished properly but this once, it wasn't. We got a nice shot of the regenerating part of the forest as well as the view.

There followed a bit of a scare when we were told that a lion had been spotted on the path ahead, and now was hiding somewhere in the bushes. Now trying to stay close to the rangers we cautiously clambered up the steep slope.We reached the area where the animal had been sighted, to find hyena footprints, so the scare was relieved.

My route following the GPS took us directly over the summit of the hill we were climbing, so we at least got a good view!

After skidding down the other side, we finally came to our next quadrant and the start of the third transect. Our route was slightly notched due to having to avoid a lone buffalo bull who had lived in a cave on our route for six years.

Once again, buts and pieces of filming ensued, along with calls from different parts of the quadrant to Rach consisting of a badly pronounced samburu tree name followed by it's measurement. All of this being very amusing to the local workers, which in turn entertained us wazungu (White folks).

The third transect went quickly aside from a second steep but short ascent to the final quadrant. We returned to camp with aching legs and empty stomachs, eager to see what the chef would make us.

He came through in style again, adding some pumpkin this time, donated to us by Roselie. We did , however, have to ask him to make more as we were all very hungry.

To make us sleep easier after last night me and R with the help of the KWS guys, constructed a knee high corrugated iron fence round our tent, to deter animals from coming too near. This done it was almost pitch black so we gathered a bit of water and headed for bed.

A few minutes later Chambers came over to warn us that elephants were going to come past soon (our tent was in a clump of trees in the middle of an elephant corridor), and if we wanted him to scare them away. We told him only if it was dangerous, to which he told us that if we heard shots fired not to worry, they were only blanks.

August 3rd - Survey Starts

Up at dawn again to watch the sun crawl across the plains. This time I got both M & Rach up when the cook arrived to make us pancakes again.

By the time we had finished, the only surveyor missing was Solomon, who appeared shortly after 9 on his bike.

A short break followed when R informed us that a troop of baboons was marching past her tent, of which Rach had to get pictures.

So excited about starting, we all then marched off to the forest leaving our rangers to run after us.

Finding our first quadrant, we marked it on the GPS and set about measuring the 3 or so trees within this highly distrubed and overgrazed area.

Still unsure as to how the GPS could be used, I figured out a way that would do, and we headed on tot he next quadrant location.

En-route there were several stops when Solomon had to repeat an explanation of a phenomenon so that it could be filmed. Soon enough we were at the next quadrant, this time in thicker forrest. We marked out the area with the tape and, in a slightly more organised fashion, set about pairing up to log species and disturbance of which there was still plenty. Finally completing this area (we were getting quicker) we headed onto the next and final quadrant of this transect, filming all the way.

The final quadrant had quite a lot of disturbance and was done fairly quickly, so we were soon heading off to the top of the next transect. By the time we got near it it was after 2 o'clock, and we decided we could not do another transect today. This was due to the extremely slow start as none of our recruits knew what was going on!

Anyway, back to base and our chef had arrived early and got the fire going. We asked him to wait to cook while we got ourselves rested and made a corn snack.

Whilst we watched our chef cook tea, we observed a samburu shepherd, about 10 years old, struggle to control his heard as they caught wind of our discarded food pile and were not going to part from it easily.

On we went to eat another excellent meal and head for bed.

August 2nd - Meeting with Elders

Up before dawn to let R sleep, I enjoyed watching the sun rise over the plains, as seen from the peaceful dew-drenched camp. Soon the sun had crept across the plains and was warming me up. As if in pursuit of the sun, the cook appeared prompting my awakening of Rachel and collecting ingredients for breakfast.

In a few moments we were eating chapates still hot, with locally made honey from the village.

Very soon R was up and we were worrying about our imminent meeting with the chief and village elders, as no-one had come to tell us the final arrangements. Finally at about 2, Sammy appeared to inform us that if it rained (it looked possible) the elders may not come to the meeting and he would check later to see if they were there. That was fine, now out of our hands, and soon after he re-appeared with a trail of about fifteen elders.

We sat round in a semi-circle and waited while they performed a ritualistic prayer, traditional to begin a meeting.

This complete, we were asked again to explain what we were doing, and once again we had to fight to keep the pay the same, this time having to enforce that we were also not providing food for all! We then had to ensure the second BINDER member's position in the team, as the chief tried to install one of his own. He finally asked for a list of staff, presumably to go and fleece them later.

Having been dismissed, we saw Solomon driving up the road, late for the meeting , and had to explain to him what happened. He also spoke to the chief and elders before they left.

A familiar face then appeared from the bushes, as Miranda had been unable to ascend Mt. Kenay due to weather and had cut the trip short.

She proceeded to rest in the tent as me, R&R went on a walk similar to that of yesterday. This time, however, peter and Roselie had begun setting up a camp for the start of a walking safari for Wilderness Scotland clients, and we agreed to meed them later for a drink.

On our way back Chambers (Jambas) took us into the forest slightly to try to see Baboons. Although this failed, we saw tracks from a leopard which satisfied us.

Upon returning we set about packing bags for tomorrow and measuring out 80m of tape for the quadrants, before being picked up by Roselie to visit the guests at their camp.

We got back from the visit to the Spanish clients, in their luxury camp, to crawl around for a while in the dark and settle down for the night.

August 1st - The Chief

Awake this morning I discovered that Rach's sleepless night caused R's sleepless night, so another dramatic start to the day. After she moved herself to the tent me and Rach got up and went about our usual tasks, lighting the fire and boiling water. This seems to be all we're doing just now.

Shortly after, a fattened rich looking Kenyan showed up and introduced himself as the chief of the area. He started demanding information on our reason for being there and further information on who we would be employing from the area. We informed him that we were doing forest research for 4-6 weeks and that Solomon had helped in finding a few people to employ. The look on his face betrayed that he wasn't too happy with this arrangement and started laying down his plans mercilessly. I was forced to stop him and say that we (me and Rach) were unable to make decision on employment as Rona was the one with the cash, and the one in charge of the project, so he would have to wait till he got up.

Unimpressed that I didn't run to get her for him, he wanted to know how long she could be, to which I explained that it was going to be impossible to tell, but that I recommended not hanging around to wait. At this point he ambled off, disgruntled, to wait with the KWS staff, where he stayed for a while before believing me and taking my advice.

Rona rose and retired a couple of times before he returned, and so was in a reasonable state to deal with him. After his previous knock-back he had come better prepared this time, bringing two prospective employees with him and firm intentions of having them put on the register.

He succeeded in this task, knocking one of Solomons men off, but Rona successfully fought for the other position to be of Solomons choosing. This mean we had two people from BINDAR, Solomons organisation, one elder of the community and person from the Samburu Wildlife Forum, a reasonable balance.

We decided it could be nice to employ a cook also, and we were immediately suggested a name from the chief. This man was to be the brother of a Lenaroshi, a corrupt man high up in the SWF. We lived in hope that the brothers were not alike.

In addition to all this we agreed that it would be a more appropriate to allow KWS guards to act as our security throughout, instead of community members who might not be as well trained.

Soon after this meeting finished, with the agreement of meeting with the chief, Solomon, Peter and the village elders tomorrow, we were met by Solomon and our extra food. This consisted of a few bits of fruit and veg and a large jar of honey!His face dropped, however when he learned of the chief's visit, but was happy enough when he found out that we had kept one place for him to fill.

We then went on a walk with Solomon, Litelit (one of Solomons and Peters suggestions), and Jambas, who was now our paid guard. We went out of the camp, along a path lined with different species of tree, being introduced to them and failing to remember the names.

Suddenly the trees gave way to a large open grassland area, about one football pitch in size with a river flowing down the right side. A path led down the center to the tree line at the far end. All of this had a backdrop of lush forest which rose up behind on a route we would soon be ascending. This was the Bawa forest we would be surveying. As we wandered up the track, chewing branches the locals use as toothbrushes, we were casually informed of elephant problems , and that this area was to have been our campsite!

We walked on, through the clean air the forest provides, until it was time to return. Back at camp, hopefully, our meal would be waiting for us, as we had left our chef with some ingredients before we departed.

Our worries were unwarranted, however, as upon our return there was a spiced rice and vegetable dish with beans on the side. Enough to feed an army, so there was a little waste that we can have for lunch tomorrow.

Having had varying views on the safety of sleeping in the tent, we sought Jambas' advice one last time. He assured us it was safe and so Rona could sleep there hopefully undisturbed. Off she went complete with radio, and just as I got into bed, the call came through: "I'm scared"

Having had my presence requested I got up, put on the shoes, armed myself with sleeping stuff and a machete and made a run for the tent. It was pitch black and scary. I made it though, and now it's time for sleep.

July 31st - Week 1 Food Rationing

Current supply to last 6 days:

Bananas x20 -> 3 or 4 per day

Carrots x11 -> 2 per day

Onions x11 -> 2 per day

Potato's -> ~2 per day

Beans

Maize x16 -> ~3 per day

Avocados x6 -> 1 per day

Bread x28 -> ~4 per day

Orange x24 -> ~4 per day

First chance I've had since our move to write in this, so...

(July 28th) - Leaving for Mugie

Up at dawn as usual, I got up Rachel and Miranda and we went for breakfast with Mark.

Soon after, the trxi came (John) and took us to the meeting point for the mtatu. A 6 hour extremely bumpy ride followed, some of which was on tarmac. We saw a few bits and pieces of wildlife, zebra and birds mostly. There was also a stop at a view point just outside Nairobi (which is huge and took us ages to get out of).

Finally we got to Mugie Ranch and to Mugie Center where we were to meet Peter and Roselie. Roselie came in her landrover about an hour later and took us to their house, a very nicely positioned bungalo on a hillside overlooking the ranch. It is solar powered and there are several house staff working there, who cook and clean for them. Their daughter was also there who is very talkative and eager to get tea and biscuits.

Guarding the house were several dogs of ages varying down from 14.

Myself and Rachell slept outside in a tent in the gbarden while Rona slept in a bedroom inside. We were kept awake slightly by the sound of loud growling followed by bone crunching directly outside our tent. We reasoned that there would be much barking from the dogs unless it was a dog, and went to sleep.

(July 29th) - Meetings meetings meetings.

Awakened at dawn for a nice breakfast we went straight into action getting ready to move. All the stuff was packed away into our bags and loaded onto Peter's truck beforeheading into Maralal.

Our first meeting was with the Samburu Wildlife Forum. At this point I expected that Rona would explain our plans, he'd say O.K. and off we'd go. However there was a woman there who was ready to explain in depth what her organisation was trying to do. After that onslaught Rona was allowed her turn to talk and as it turned out we were able to get help from this woman as her aim was similar to our aim. I then discussed the creation of a website for the Forum.

Our next meeting was with an organisation who protected wild animals outside protected areas; then to meet a man called Solomon who had broken away from the Samburu Forum because they wanted to build an unenvironmental hotel in an effort to be toursity instead of eco-touristy. Following this we had a meeting with the District Commissioner. He is a fat, large man with plenty of jewelry and wealth, the embodiment of unfairness, and I don't like him.

All of these meetings consisted of Rona telling someone what we were doing and them saying o.k. with various degrees of enthusiasm.

Next on the agenda was to get supplies (food and equipment) from the local shops.

We were taken to a small grocers shop to get food for the next week and to set up a weekly order with the shop owner. This done we went to another shop to buy some pots to cook with, a basin to wash in, a machete to be useful and a 70 litre water butt.

During this time we attracted three impressively irritating men's attention who would just not leave us alone. They may have done if Rachell hadn't fancied a chat with them!

Peter then gave us a lift up to Bawa where we were to stay near some KWS huts for the duration of our stay.

As it transpired we were able to stay in one of the huts and so avoided having to put up our tent in the rain.

This was a slight relief as now we were definitely going to be safe.

(July 30th) - Change of venue.

Awake and up in the morning, as predicted the KWS guys were not the quietest bunch, one in particular feels the need to hout in a forced shrill voice that annoys me lots.

It turned out that Rona had now had next to no sleep for about two days, something had to be done.

We did have the tent that we were meant to be staying in, so we asked the KWS guys to help us out a bit.

After a bit of searching around we found a good spot to put up the tent, under some trees and a bit further from the camp where it was a bit quieter. This done the KWS guys set about erecting the tent, loosening and tightening ropes and hammering in pegs. It was all great fun fro them to get in perfect, but all I wanted was somewhere to put Rona so that she'd get some rest. Finally they finished and Rona was able to rest.

Our next task was to make fire and boil water to drink. After finding a pre dug hole, we sat about figuring out what to use to start. Just as we were about to get going a friendly KWS guy came down with some paper and kindling and proceeded to do it all for us. Very kind of him, but I kind of wanted to do it myself.

Anyway, we boiled some water to cook rice and made a rice and vegetable thing to eat, then boiled some more water to drink. After this it was time for bed, so off Rona went to the tent and me and Rach started packing the stuff into the hut.

Jambas (KWS guy) came down at this point to warn me that putting a small fire outside R's tent would be a good idea to deter any elephants that use the corridor next to her! He said it was only a precaution but obviously now R couldn't sleep there for subconscious worry, so the three of us slept in the hut.

(July 31st) - Altitude

At dawn R moved to the tent to get some more sleep, and a short while later me and Rach got up and set about sorting our equipment.

Yesterday I had erected a washing line across the hut using twine from the food boxes, so that random items could be hung out the way, and we had also moved the food up onto a table at the back to that insects and animals couldn't get to it.

Today we decided it would be a good idea to roll up the beds in the morning to give more space inside to move around.

Then the usual practice of fire starting with the aid of Jambas ensued and water was boiled.

This time it was washing day for R's pants and my t-shirt, so in the bucket they went with the soap and on the fire.

At this time I put up a second line. This time outside for use as a washing line.

We decided to go for a walk after lunch to the top of a nearby track and back, not wanting to go far from the camp without security. Suitably out of breath by the time we got back we realised we were in fact twice as hight as any Munroe in Scotland! I guess we've not acclimatised yet.

On our trek we noted that our survey area could be divided into three areas on three different hills around the camp. Each one could have various transects done on it, however distances could not be measured without a map, to be brought by Peter on Tuesday (2 days time).

Once it had cooled slightly, we became more active and set about making tea. Rona's task this time, she boiled the rice and steamed the veg at the same time, with the aim of making a stir-fry.

This was much more tasty than my effort and went down easy.

After eating and cleaning was finished we met Solomon again, who wanted to check we were o.k. in our lodgings and to see if he could get extra food supplies from Bawa. We gave him a list of groceries and some money and agreed to speak to him tomorrow.

This done, once again we packed away our things and moved inside.

We also agreed with Solomon that no guard for camp was required as we had Jambas, so we could pay him some of the money as appreciation.

July 27th - Leaving Day

On 25th I started having a bit of diahorreohaeoheoea, but continued to walk along to Shela beach for a walk in the Indian Ocean again.

I think there was a long sand bank however because the waves were breaking quite far out to sea, so there were none for me to play in. :(

Got a nice view of the fort at Shela though, and a decent walk there and back.

At night, however, health took a turn for the worse and I went to bed for the night.

The next day I wasn't much better. Decided not to eat anything and started taking the antibiotic course.

I feel slightly better today, but nausia and dizzy spells are making me think going up Mount Kenya is not such a good plan. Maybe I'll do it on another trip.

I enjoyed Lamu and Shela for all their laziness and friendliness.

Apart from one event a couple of days ago when we were a bit cornered by a couple of guys selling us a canoe trip. THey kept asking us for a bit more deposit and didn't stick to their deals. Lesson learned.

We also made a good few friends here' the dohow captain with his sheep, and their crew of happy musicians; and windsurfing satan.

I can't wait to see the look on peoples faces when I tell them that "I found Satan" and "I made peace with Satan" etc. We also made deals with Satan!

Lamu is an incredibly lay town and after being here this long, our regular custom to the shop for water and to the usual stall for 'nyama choma' gets recognised. However, always we are hassled for dhow trips and boat trips to Shela, something I will certainly not miss!

That's our ten day holiday over, and at a time when we would normally return home, we simply continue our journey to work in the northern Rift Valley.

One last visit to the water shop to get rations for the next few days' journey result in us being wished well many times over by the owner 'Habib' and his friend who was in the shop.

The flight back to Nairobi afforded good views of Lamu, Shela and Nairobi as I sat on the correct side of the plane! Also on the journey was a sighting of My. Kilimanjaro in the distance. It's big!

Back into Nairobi and John met us at the airport as promised and took us to our hotel. There we met Mark and a Professor Rona had met on her previous visit three years earlier.

Rachel then arrived at about 10, after we had been out for tea and now everyone is packing to go to bed. Rachel and I for our journey to Mugie tomorrow, and Miranda for her climb out Mt. Kenya.

July 24th (Part 2) - Second Dhow Trip

This trip was supposed to start at 10am, but we changed the time to 11.30 at the expense of fishing so that Rona could go. Off we went with a very lively and friendly crew, fishing line strung over the side.

The short amount of fishing was without success, however the crew had thought ahead and brought backup fish to barbecue.

The cooking operation began when we arrived on Manda beach opposite Shela beach, while we (the customers) set about relaxing either on the beach or in the sea.

I decided to go for a wander further onto the island to see if I could get any pictures of interesting things; but my efforts were in vain. I got a fright at one stage due to a large flying (beetle?) thing, about the size of a tennis ball, and came back to the beach.

On to the barbecue, two large white snappers had been cooked with paprika, very tasty. During the fiast of rice vegetables and fish; bright yellow weaver birds fed their young immediately above us in the branches of the acacia tree we sat under. Obviously my camera cried out to be used, so I hope the pictures come out OK!

After lunch we all split off for walks and swims. We were offered a chance to fish further down the island, but this came to nothing. Me and Rona found an interesting looking crab that wasn't pointy in any way, rather floral in appearance.

The next major event was Rona laying a sizeable heap of dung on the island something to confuse explorers in times to come!

Then it was back on the dhow to return to Lamu, being serenaded by the crew with random sections of various songs all strung together in a collage of sound. Interesting but I don't think it would make it in the charts!

Another point to note about this crew, their mascot. One of the crew had found a lamb when it's mother had died and this lamb obviously imprinted on the man, following him everywhere. On asking the lambs age we were swiftly informed "3 months and 2 weeks". The lamb came with us on the boat and complained much when it's 'dad' went more than 3 feet where it could not follow!

Back on Lamu we went to get some juice and discover what food we could get for our climb of Mount Kenya in a few days time.

Then a meal followed in true style, me and Rona going to visit Satan at the Beach Grove while the other 3 stayed at the Paradise hotel for beer and pizza.

July 24th (Part 1) - Mount Kenya

Equipment List & Plan:

Days x6 - till Tuesday

- Mtatu on Wednesday

Day 1 - Wednesday - Get to park gates at Mt. Kenya

Days 2,3,4,5,6 - Climb and decend Mt. Kenya

Day 7 - Sort out equipment and get Mtatu to final destination.

Equipment:

1 Map

1 Stove

1 Cutlery

1 Small Radio

1 Warm Clothes

1 Sunglasses

1 Sleeping Bag

2 Mess tins

1 Head torch

1 Tent

1 Clothes (2nd set)

1 Suncream

Anti Malarials

Water bottles

6 breakfast

6 lunch

6 tea

Fuel for stove

Personal Hygene

July 21st - Windsurfing

The day started predictably with fruit already laid on the table when I emerged from my bed; with pancakes close behind.

The first mission of the day was to communicate with the world via email. Reliably informed, we set off to the post office in Lamu to find three of their computers down and two long winded German women on the other two. After leaving Miranda to queue I went and fetched Rona, returning to find a longer queue but no progress.

As we sat in wait a middle aged american woman entered trying to get to her emails on one of the broken computers. At one point during her fruitless efforts the phone next to her went and she picked it up as though it was her own work desk. The fact she had been babbling away in a strong American accent, with dreadlocks and henna tattoos didn't stop her speaking to the caller fluently in Swahili, to our amazement; then continuing to fail to check her emails as if nothing had happened.

Finally we got on the computer and I managed to send a message while Miranda and Rona set off to get phone cards instead.

We then decided, over a pint of passion, to take advantage of the windsurf base along the beach between Lamu and Shela. The place was run by Satan, who happily gave me a board and proceeded to teach Rona in the art of windsurfing. Getting frustrated by the strong tide and seeming lack of progress by myself I eventually got back to base a the cost of being able to grip anything, and took over Rona training.

After drifting some way she handed control of the board to me, who attempted to sail it back to base. This was fine till I hit stronger wind when I discovered the board was defective and sail not properly attached, so I was rescued (by Satan).

We then met up with a friend of Miranda's (and some woman he had found) and went for a meal; a new place this time. I got the best curry I have ever had here, let it be known.

A short walk followed down the front to sit and wait for Miranda to phone her other half whereupon we were engaged in conversation with a dhow captain, af the end of which he gave me a flower! Quite random.

Now as I write this, a small lizard has run across my bed; so I'm going to see that it's gone, then go to bed!

July 20th - Dhow trip

After a breakfast of pancakes, toast & tea we went in search of an Internet access point. Our mission failed however on discovering the server was down, so we settled for a wander around Lamu town, again. Almost straight away we were found by a man I had previously turned down, wanting to take us to see his gallery. We obliged this time on the off chance there would be postcards present. After being led down a series of side streets we came to a small room filled with paintings and jewelery, nothing of interest to us. When told we wanted postcards he immediately set off to lead us to another 'friends' house where there were postcards. Miranda purchased two & we went on our way.

Later we met with Bobo, our captain who took us to his dhow, and we were soon of. We sailed out into the sea where we got good views of Lamu and Shela, and stopped on the far side on a pristine beach where we swam.


After a swim and a walk along the beach, crab watching, we returned to Bobo's boat & waited for his crew, who had gone to find a woman that had been dropped there in the morning.

All aboard we set off round the island of [can't remember] to see a ruined village in the center of the island. During the visit we stopped on the shore of the Indian Ocean or the far side of the island and played for a while in waves of at least 6ft. Nzuri sana!

We also obtained a fruit of the baobab tre, which tastes a bit like sherbert.


We returned swiftly to Lamu about 5 hours after departure and went hunting for food. Not a difficult hunt mind, after getting a few sticks of meat from a street stall we went back to yesterdays restaurant (who wouldn't) for another filling meal & couple of pints of passion!

July 22nd & 23rd - Mangroves and Rain

I was too tired yesterday to write the diary & now I can't remember why.
We went down to windsurf at Satan's again, but he didn't have enough equipment to lend us because it was out or being repaired, so myself & Rona went swimming for an hour or so.
Satan then agreed to let us have a couple of boards - minus sail - to paddle across to the mangroves on the next island. This took much less time than expected & we returned complete with cut feet from the rock oysters covering the underwater Mangrove stumps.
Then there was tea at the cheap place again with the standard pint's of fresh squeezed juice. A new experience was some lime juice (I don't think they put any sugar in it, unlike the orange!) & Rona decided upon a strawberry milkshake. When this arrived I'm sure it could have lit the town in the event of a power cut! Luminous pink, obviously made from syrup, with an aftertaste like bitter tar, horrible stuff!
On to the next morning & something in that meal had upset the stomach & bowels to give my first nasty bowel experience of the holiday.
The day started off badly when I was offered breakfast & didn't get any. For various reasons I descended into a bad mood & hopefully this will be gone by tomorrow.
The main event of the day was going to be a fishing dhow trip with associated barbecue on a beach somewhere with the catches of the day.
However the weather turned against us (as did my bowels) & we decided not to fish in the pouring rain in the middle of the sea!
Instead we opted for some juice, obviously, and some food, before visiting the Lamu museum.
This was almost interesting, filled with some history of Lamu & some relics found from the ruins on Mamba island, where we visited on the 20th.
There was a reasonable view from the top of the museum, which was originally a fort, where we could watch part of the main street as well as the ongoings at the seafront.
After this I retired to the roof to bask in my misery till dusk while the others did something unknown to me.
All that's left now is to feel better get some food, and go to bed!

July 19th - Shela

When we got up we were informed that our organised boat trip was to leave earlier than expected due to tides etc. Unsure as to whether Rona would be up in time we put off the trip till tomorrow. Sleep was broken the night before due to a torrential cloudburst and the 4 a.m Muslim prayer song.

One thing to note about sunlight hours here is that when it is night is impossible to tell the hour of night, it could be 10pm or 5am, so you never know when you are awake.

A morning stroll around the town revealed an Internet shop for use tomorrow and the post office and tourist information. We also happened upon Captain Bobo, our dhow skipper for the arranged trip who went over the forthcoming events with us.

Upon returning to the hotel to collect Rona we discovered her room was quite noisy & requested that she be relocated to a quieter room. The nice hotel manager complied completely and did not charge any extra for the privilege.

As the day progressed we were glad not to be on the boat as there were further downpours; the silver lining being that we did not have to put up with the mid-day sun.

The weather cleared for the afternoon when we took a trip to Shela and the neighbouring beach just a few km down the shore. Along the way we found a windsurf hire shop which we will take advantage of in due course.

A swim in the sea and short rest on the beach saw us heading back to base, this time employing a boat service to shorten the journey, and get a nice view of Shela and Lamu.

On arrival we were greeted by Bobo, again not being recognised by me (I'm bad with faces) he was introduced to Rona and we proceeded to finalise arrangements for the next day.

We were then recommended a place to eat well and cheaply near the hotel and proceeded to set about getting more cash from the hotel safe. This proved to be entirely unnecessary as the entire meal cost us 290 ksh (£2.25) in total including pints: 1x Passion fruit, 1x Avocado, 1x Orange & 1x Mango juice. We are, once again, well fed.

This meal had been preceded by various occasions of eating meat kebabs from street stalls as will happen every day I imagine, because they're nice.

Now, once again we relax for the evening listening to far off prayer song and the lapping waves at the waterfront where we are staying.

July 18th - Lamu

Up at dawn in time for breakfast in Nairobi. This consisted of a piece of wheetabix with half a banana and a fried egg and sausage' not quite what I expected in Kenya. The wait for Rona to arise was specked with moments of uncertainty as to whether she slept OK because of noisy neighbours the night before. Further setbacks occur ed on attempting to contact accommodation in Lamu, on the coast of Kenya, as the numbers for a few hotels didn't work, as well as the tourist information in Lamu. My attempts to contact the town via the Nairobi operator ended in vain when she constantly thought I was seeking a restaurant in London. At this point we gave up!


Upon Rona's awake we shortly got a taxi (same driver as yesterday, John) to Wilson airport to get our flight.


I was mislead by the term low-level flight, which turned out to be just above cloud level, but there were many breaks in the cloud to keep me entertained for the 1:15 flight.


Upon arrival we were greeted by ground staff & inevitable touts selling their boat services (the only way to get to Lamu from the airport) 100ksh saw us safely to the mainland where we immediately landed on our feet with a good 900ksh (£3) a night with breakfast included, whatever breakfast may be!


We proceeded to look up valuables in the safe and go for a tour of Lamu. Apparently there is only 1 motorised vehicle here and it's easy to see why. With streets between 1 and 5 meters wide, lined with stalls & congested with human traffic, it would be impossible to drive. Hungry from the flight we stopped at a stall where a man was making beef kebabs over a barbecue and selling them for 10 shillings each. We continued our tour saying 'Jambo' to locals and observing the large quantity of cats in various stages of health & age till we decided to go to the beach. Getting a barbecued corn-on-the-cob on the way (being ripped off at 15p) we stopped short of the beach and had a swim in tepid waters to stretch limbs.


Back to the hotel we observed the 15 minute period between it being daylight & dark, we went next door to Hapa-Hapa (Here Here) to eat. Two and a half hours later we eventually emerged well fed but tyred from waiting, now it's off to bed after a decent shower...

July 17th - Nairobi National Park

Awake at 9:30ish, sub already blazing. It's not too hot in Nairobi apart from at midday. Attempted again the impossible task of efficiently packing my bag. It's not going to happen!

A nice taxi driver took us to the park at 12:00 and also agreed to take us through the park after, in true Kenyan style, our booking for a safari ride the previous day, had gotten lost. Learning our lesson from yesterday, we pre-agreed a price of 45oo KSh (£11), to get round the park and back to the hotel. (I am now head barterer!)



Still unsure if we were being conned we paid the entrance fee to the park & off we went. Upon entering the park a family of baboons crossed our path, setting the stage for many more species to follow. Along the way were monkeys, heron, giraffe, ostrich, buffalo with their enterage of egrets along for the ride. A good 3 and a half to 4 hours of entertainment! I was happy. Before we left there was a visit to the parks animal orphanage where animals are kept until suitable for release into the park. For £5 we were able to see several lions in various states of repair, some disturbed looking monkeys and some noisy birds. This was all dwarfed by the experience of going into the cheetah pen to pet and play with them. They purr loud!



John the driver then took it upon himself to show us some slums of Nairobi, not pretty.

Tea was made for us at sunset, 7Pm. I'm not sure what part of what animal was served, but it wasn't well fed whatever the case. Our company consisted of 2 men, only one of which we extracted information from when an ice-breaking power cut ended the meal; it's not interesting. It costs 25p for a soda here, worth noting.

July 16th - Arrive Nairobi

After one of the better flights in my experience, featuring individual screen with a large selection of programms and films, individually pausable etc., we arrived in Nairobi. Uppon approach, a group of African singers gave an impromptu performance to welcome us to the country.

The V.I.P treatment continued as after no explanation at all, we were rushed through the visa application process and shot out of the airport into the melee of taxi drivers

Unsure as to whether the guest house we seeked existed, as no-one seemed to have heard of it, we eventually arrived having been slapped with a hefty 3000Ksh (£20) taxi fair; we need to get better at haggling!

Upon arrival we were greeted in a friendly manner and shown to our rooms.

July 15th - Departure Day

First incident to be remembered:

I got a phonecall yesterday from Rona, whilst on route to Rafford, informing me she can't find her passport!

Why she waited till the day before dpearture to look for it is beyond me. A second call made to us during a coffee breakin Granton on Spey prompted an about turn and return to Edinburgh, where the passport was discovered in a jacket pocket. Aparently it was placed there for safekeeping just before she crashed the second set of auditions for 'The X Factor'

Remember next time to tell Rona to look for the passport a few weeks before departure.