Wednesday, 4 August 2004

August 4th - A long day

Having been woken by R during the nightseveral times and being told to be quiet because of nearby animals, hyenas, I was a bit tired on rising. We had arranged an earlier start of 8 o'clock to try and get two transects done, and so complete the first area.
Everyone appeared on time and we headed off. Using the GPS, we happened upon our first quadrant fairly quickly, and now were far more efficient, starting measurements before the area was marked completely.
We carried on like this up the transect, completing it before noon, with plenty more filming of fallen or cut trees and disturbances etc..
Our next task was to traverse across to the top of the next transect. Assured that it was an easy enough route we set off following the GPS as the crow flies to the next area. Maybe not the best plan, this took us down into ta valley and up the steep opposite slope. Up through thick bush we struggled, still not acclimatised to the altitude, we came across an area that had some time ago been accidentally burned because of fires lit to get at bees honey. The locals use the smoke from the fire to flush out the bees so they can harvest the honey. These fires are usually extinguished properly but this once, it wasn't. We got a nice shot of the regenerating part of the forest as well as the view.
There followed a bit of a scare when we were told that a lion had been spotted on the path ahead, and now was hiding somewhere in the bushes. Now trying to stay close to the rangers we cautiously clambered up the steep slope.We reached the area where the animal had been sighted, to find hyena footprints, so the scare was relieved.
My route following the GPS took us directly over the summit of the hill we were climbing, so we at least got a good view!
After skidding down the other side, we finally came to our next quadrant and the start of the third transect. Our route was slightly notched due to having to avoid a lone buffalo bull who had lived in a cave on our route for six years.
Once again, buts and pieces of filming ensued, along with calls from different parts of the quadrant to Rach consisting of a badly pronounced samburu tree name followed by it's measurement. All of this being very amusing to the local workers, which in turn entertained us wazungu (White folks).
The third transect went quickly aside from a second steep but short ascent to the final quadrant. We returned to camp with aching legs and empty stomachs, eager to see what the chef would make us.
He came through in style again, adding some pumpkin this time, donated to us by Roselie. We did , however, have to ask him to make more as we were all very hungry.
To make us sleep easier after last night me and R with the help of the KWS guys, constructed a knee high corrugated iron fence round our tent, to deter animals from coming too near. This done it was almost pitch black so we gathered a bit of water and headed for bed.
A few minutes later Chambers came over to warn us that elephants were going to come past soon (our tent was in a clump of trees in the middle of an elephant corridor), and if we wanted him to scare them away. We told him only if it was dangerous, to which he told us that if we heard shots fired not to worry, they were only blanks.

Tuesday, 3 August 2004

August 3rd - Survey Starts

Up at dawn again to watch the sun crawl across the plains. This time I got both M & Rach up when the cook arrived to make us pancakes again.
By the time we had finished, the only surveyor missing was Solomon, who appeared shortly after 9 on his bike.
A short break followed when R informed us that a troop of baboons was marching past her tent, of which Rach had to get pictures.
So excited about starting, we all then marched off to the forest leaving our rangers to run after us.
Finding our first quadrant, we marked it on the GPS and set about measuring the 3 or so trees within this highly distrubed and overgrazed area.
Still unsure as to how the GPS could be used, I figured out a way that would do, and we headed on tot he next quadrant location.
En-route there were several stops when Solomon had to repeat an explanation of a phenomenon so that it could be filmed. Soon enough we were at the next quadrant, this time in thicker forrest. We marked out the area with the tape and, in a slightly more organised fashion, set about pairing up to log species and disturbance of which there was still plenty. Finally completing this area (we were getting quicker) we headed onto the next and final quadrant of this transect, filming all the way.
The final quadrant had quite a lot of disturbance and was done fairly quickly, so we were soon heading off to the top of the next transect. By the time we got near it it was after 2 o'clock, and we decided we could not do another transect today. This was due to the extremely slow start as none of our recruits knew what was going on!
Anyway, back to base and our chef had arrived early and got the fire going. We asked him to wait to cook while we got ourselves rested and made a corn snack.
Whilst we watched our chef cook tea, we observed a samburu shepherd, about 10 years old, struggle to control his heard as they caught wind of our discarded food pile and were not going to part from it easily.
On we went to eat another excellent meal and head for bed.

Monday, 2 August 2004

August 2nd - Meeting with Elders

Up before dawn to let R sleep, I enjoyed watching the sun rise over the plains, as seen from the peaceful dew-drenched camp. Soon the sun had crept across the plains and was warming me up. As if in pursuit of the sun, the cook appeared prompting my awakening of Rachel and collecting ingredients for breakfast.
In a few moments we were eating chapates still hot, with locally made honey from the village.
Very soon R was up and we were worrying about our imminent meeting with the chief and village elders, as no-one had come to tell us the final arrangements. Finally at about 2, Sammy appeared to inform us that if it rained (it looked possible) the elders may not come to the meeting and he would check later to see if they were there. That was fine, now out of our hands, and soon after he re-appeared with a trail of about fifteen elders.
We sat round in a semi-circle and waited while they performed a ritualistic prayer, traditional to begin a meeting.
This complete, we were asked again to explain what we were doing, and once again we had to fight to keep the pay the same, this time having to enforce that we were also not providing food for all! We then had to ensure the second BINDER member's position in the team, as the chief tried to install one of his own. He finally asked for a list of staff, presumably to go and fleece them later.
Having been dismissed, we saw Solomon driving up the road, late for the meeting , and had to explain to him what happened. He also spoke to the chief and elders before they left.
A familiar face then appeared from the bushes, as Miranda had been unable to ascend Mt. Kenay due to weather and had cut the trip short.
She proceeded to rest in the tent as me, R&R went on a walk similar to that of yesterday. This time, however, peter and Roselie had begun setting up a camp for the start of a walking safari for Wilderness Scotland clients, and we agreed to meed them later for a drink.
On our way back Chambers (Jambas) took us into the forest slightly to try to see Baboons. Although this failed, we saw tracks from a leopard which satisfied us.
Upon returning we set about packing bags for tomorrow and measuring out 80m of tape for the quadrants, before being picked up by Roselie to visit the guests at their camp.
We got back from the visit to the Spanish clients, in their luxury camp, to crawl around for a while in the dark and settle down for the night.

Sunday, 1 August 2004

August 1st - The Chief

Awake this morning I discovered that Rach's sleepless night caused R's sleepless night, so another dramatic start to the day. After she moved herself to the tent me and Rach got up and went about our usual tasks, lighting the fire and boiling water. This seems to be all we're doing just now.
Shortly after, a fattened rich looking Kenyan showed up and introduced himself as the chief of the area. He started demanding information on our reason for being there and further information on who we would be employing from the area. We informed him that we were doing forest research for 4-6 weeks and that Solomon had helped in finding a few people to employ. The look on his face betrayed that he wasn't too happy with this arrangement and started laying down his plans mercilessly. I was forced to stop him and say that we (me and Rach) were unable to make decision on employment as Rona was the one with the cash, and the one in charge of the project, so he would have to wait till he got up.
Unimpressed that I didn't run to get her for him, he wanted to know how long she could be, to which I explained that it was going to be impossible to tell, but that I recommended not hanging around to wait. At this point he ambled off, disgruntled, to wait with the KWS staff, where he stayed for a while before believing me and taking my advice.
Rona rose and retired a couple of times before he returned, and so was in a reasonable state to deal with him. After his previous knock-back he had come better prepared this time, bringing two prospective employees with him and firm intentions of having them put on the register.
He succeeded in this task, knocking one of Solomons men off, but Rona successfully fought for the other position to be of Solomons choosing. This mean we had two people from BINDAR, Solomons organisation, one elder of the community and person from the Samburu Wildlife Forum, a reasonable balance.
We decided it could be nice to employ a cook also, and we were immediately suggested a name from the chief. This man was to be the brother of a Lenaroshi, a corrupt man high up in the SWF. We lived in hope that the brothers were not alike.
In addition to all this we agreed that it would be a more appropriate to allow KWS guards to act as our security throughout, instead of community members who might not be as well trained.
Soon after this meeting finished, with the agreement of meeting with the chief, Solomon, Peter and the village elders tomorrow, we were met by Solomon and our extra food. This consisted of a few bits of fruit and veg and a large jar of honey!His face dropped, however when he learned of the chief's visit, but was happy enough when he found out that we had kept one place for him to fill.
We then went on a walk with Solomon, Litelit (one of Solomons and Peters suggestions), and Jambas, who was now our paid guard. We went out of the camp, along a path lined with different species of tree, being introduced to them and failing to remember the names.
Suddenly the trees gave way to a large open grassland area, about one football pitch in size with a river flowing down the right side. A path led down the center to the tree line at the far end. All of this had a backdrop of lush forest which rose up behind on a route we would soon be ascending. This was the Bawa forest we would be surveying. As we wandered up the track, chewing branches the locals use as toothbrushes, we were casually informed of elephant problems , and that this area was to have been our campsite!
We walked on, through the clean air the forest provides, until it was time to return. Back at camp, hopefully, our meal would be waiting for us, as we had left our chef with some ingredients before we departed.
Our worries were unwarranted, however, as upon our return there was a spiced rice and vegetable dish with beans on the side. Enough to feed an army, so there was a little waste that we can have for lunch tomorrow.
Having had varying views on the safety of sleeping in the tent, we sought Jambas' advice one last time. He assured us it was safe and so Rona could sleep there hopefully undisturbed. Off she went complete with radio, and just as I got into bed, the call came through: "I'm scared"
Having had my presence requested I got up, put on the shoes, armed myself with sleeping stuff and a machete and made a run for the tent. It was pitch black and scary. I made it though, and now it's time for sleep.